The Riding Soldier: Parshuram Kund Arunachal Pradesh Travel Story
এই পোস্ট টি বাংলায় পড়তে ক্লিক করুন
Today, as I conquer treacherous mountain trails on my dream Royal Enfield, turning back the pages of memory constantly brings one special day to my eyes. It was an October, nearly 11 years ago. In those golden days of 2015, although the dream of becoming a biker burned bright in my heart, there was no Royal Enfield in my garage. Yet, it was exactly then that the unforgettable moment of my very first mountain ride came into my life."
Carrying the responsibility of some official work, I set foot in Tezu, a mountainous town in Arunachal Pradesh, in October 2015. Accompanying me was my very dear friend and colleague, Duniya Dozi. Dozi's home was right there, in that beautiful town of Tezu.
Today, as I write this story, my heart grows heavy because Dozi is no longer with us. A soldier's life—when, how, and on which border it might come to an end—is perhaps known to no one but the Almighty. Serving the nation, he has departed for the otherworldly abode, but he will live on in my heart forever as a hero and an extraordinary friend.
DUNIYA DOZI
The moment we finished our official work in Tezu, we learned about 'Parshuram Kund'—a historic and sacred temple situated close to the banks of the Lohit River, just a short distance away. As soon as I heard about the mountain river and the temple, my inner rider grew restless. The plan was instantly set—we would head there on a bike.
With a lot of effort, my friend Dozi managed to arrange a 'Pulsar' bike for us. And just like that, began the thrilling experience of my very first ride on mountain roads. Oh, what a feeling! Cruising through those winding roads that cut right through the heart of the lush green mountains, twisting the bike's throttle—it gave me a heavenly sensation that I experienced there for the very first time.
The joy of climbing up the mountain ended, and the real test began when we started descending the sharp, winding curves from the hilltop. Suddenly, while riding, my eyes drifted to the right. Looking at the boundary of the roaring Lohit River flowing hundreds of feet below, my hands and feet literally went cold. My heart trembled with fear, and I lost all the strength to ride the bike.
I stopped the bike and said to Dozi, 'Brother, I can't do this anymore. I just can't ride the bike down this steep mountain slope.
Hearing my words, Dozi didn't get angry at all. Flashing his characteristic, broad mountain smile, he took the bike's handlebars into his own hands. Making me sit at the back, he rode with absolute mastery and brought us right to nature's breathtakingly beautiful Parshuram Kund.
LOHIT RIVER
The beauty I took in with my eyes open wide on the banks of the Lohit River that day was immense, but an even greater treasure was the companionship of a friend like Dozi. Today, I have a Royal Enfield in my garage and the courage to ride on mountain roads, but that smiling friend, Duniya Dozi, who used to sit behind me and reassure me, is no longer here.
As long as the waters of that Lohit River in Arunachal continue to flow, the memory of Duniya Dozi and the story of my first mountain ride will remain immortal in the heart of this soldier rider. I salute you, my friend; wherever you are, may you rest in peace.
Tearing through the heart of the Eastern Himalayas, the Lohit River flows with a fierce, untamable rhythm. This river is not just a body of water, but a living canvas of nature itself. Standing guard on both sides are lush green mountains and the breathtaking valleys of the Mishmi Hills. The mist-shrouded forests cascading down the mountain slopes wrap the Lohit River in a blanket of mysterious beauty.
In winter, the persona of the Lohit River transforms completely. Its waters become crystal clear, taking on a magical, mesmerizing blue hue. As this fierce and turbulent current crashes against the massive boulders resting at the riverbed, it creates a deep, rhythmic resonance that echoes through the silence of the surrounding mountains. This sound, combined with the pristine, untamed beauty of nature, instantly fills the heart of any traveler or nature lover with absolute serenity.
The vast region surrounding the Lohit River largely falls within the Kamlang Wildlife Sanctuary. A fascinating feature of this forest is that it is naturally enveloped by countless sacred Rudraksha trees. As the gentle breeze causes the leaves and fruits of this Rudraksha forest to brush against each other, a spiritual fragrance seems to diffuse through the air along the banks of the Lohit River. This peaceful guise of nature adds a unique and mystical dimension to the river's beauty.
Right on one of the banks of this very river, hugging the steep mountain slopes, lies a highly sacred pilgrimage site of Sanatan Dharma—the 'Shri Parshuram Kund Temple'. To reach this reservoir and the main temple situated on the riverbank, one must descend over 200 steep steps that cut down through the heart of the mountain from the main road. With each step downward, the roaring of the Lohit River below on one side and the enveloping silence on the other give birth to a strange, thrilling sensation.
PARSHURAM KUND
This historic temple is dedicated to Maharishi Parshuram, the sixth avatar of Lord Vishnu. In addition to the majestic and radiant idol of Lord Parshuram in the main temple, there are smaller shrines dedicated to his mother, Renuka, and the ten avatars (Dashavatar) of Lord Vishnu.
Turning the pages of Hindu mythology and the Mahabharata reveals a fascinating history surrounding this reservoir. According to folklore, after committing the grave sin of matricide upon his father's command, the axe in Maharishi Parshuram’s hand became miraculously fused to his palm. Despite his utmost efforts, he could not separate the axe from his hand. To seek redemption from the heinous sin of matricide and to free his hand from the axe, he traveled all across India.
Finally, upon bathing in the sacred waters of the Lohit River flowing in the lap of these rugged Himalayas, a miracle occurred—the axe slipped off his hand on its own and fell to the ground, freeing him from the sin forever. Today, this historic temple and Parshuram Kund have been established at that very sacred spot where the axe fell from Maharishi Parshuram's hand. Every year during Makar Sankranti, thousands of devotees from across the country rush to bathe in the freezing waters of the Lohit River to bless themselves.
"Standing on the banks of the Lohit River during that 2015 ride, as I recalled this history, all the exhaustion of military duty seemed to vanish into thin air like camphor in those crystal-clear waters.
Defying the bone-chilling, biting cold of Makar Sankranti, hundreds of thousands of ascetics, Naga sadhus, and ordinary devotees from across India (such as Assam, Manipur, and Bihar) as well as from neighboring countries like Nepal and Bhutan, converge on the banks of the Lohit River. In the hope of washing away primal sins hidden deep within the soul and in search of the Supreme Being, they immerse themselves to the chest and take a holy bath in the freezing, sacred waters of the Lohit River. For the fair, the local administration arranges special transport, tight security, and excellent food and lodging for the devotees. The air resonates with the chanting of mantras, the fragrance of incense, and the
As I was listening to the history of this festival of the Lohit River, my friend Dozi, standing right beside me, smiled and said, 'Brother, since you've come all this way, take a dip in the Lohit River at least once.' That day, my mountain friend Duniya Dozi himself took a holy dip in those sacred waters of the Lohit River. Perhaps he didn't bathe to wash away any sins of his life, but rather, as a child of nature, he was receiving the blessings of Mother Lohit upon his head.
When I think about it today, I find a strange comfort in a corner of my mind. The sacred waters of the Lohit River, where bathing freed Maharishi Parshuram from his sins and which millions of people consider a holy pilgrimage—even though my friend Dozi is no longer alive today, the touch of that sacred water had graced his body and soul that day. In this uncertain life of a soldier, he may have left us ahead of his time, but the memory of that holy bath in the Lohit River and its sacred embrace will remain forever untouched in this soldier's heart of mine.
We were so absorbed in the sacred magic of the Lohit River and the thrill of climbing the steps of Parshuram Kund that we completely forgot to keep track of time. When we finally finished bathing in the waters of the Lohit River, a sudden glance at the hands of the clock made us realize that the afternoon had slipped away, and it was nearly three o'clock! After the cold mountain air and the long journey, a sharp pang of hunger began to burn inside our stomachs.
However, in that desolate corner of the rugged mountains, there were no shops or hotels anywhere nearby. Driven by the urgency of our hunger, the two of us frantically began searching here and there for a place to eat. But for miles together, there was only silent nature and dense forest, with absolutely no sign of food anywhere. Just as we had more or less given up hope, our eyes caught a small, neat little hut on the mountain slope.
Peeking into the house, we saw a local mountain woman inside. We were extremely hungry, so we shared our helpless situation with her and earnestly requested some food. That day, we received yet another proof of how big-hearted and warm mountain people truly are. Hearing our request, she walked into the kitchen with a smile, and within moments, served us steaming hot rice and a fresh fish curry made from a catch straight out of the Lohit River.
In that secluded mountain hut, the taste of the Lohit River fish and rice cooked by the hands of that stranger mother surpassed the food of any expensive hotel in the world. After eating to our heart's content, we gave her 500 rupees as a token of gratitude. The hospitality she offered us in exchange for that meager 500 rupees is impossible to measure in monetary terms.
By the time we finished our meal and returned to our bike, a magical mountain evening had begun to descend upon the hills. The surrounding forest was wrapping itself in a blanket of mist, and the roar of the Lohit River seemed to grow even deeper. It was now time to return.
The very mountain curves that had made my heart tremble on our way there were now ahead of us on our return. Cutting through the mist under the glow of the bike's headlight, the two of us rode along those same winding roads back to Tezu. Dozi's broad smile and the roar of the bike melted seamlessly into one another in that chilly Arunachal evening.
Today, so many years later, whenever I ride my bike to far-off places and eat fish and rice by a mountain river, my eyes blur with tears without me even realizing it. I am transported right back to that October afternoon of 2015, where a mountain mother had fed my hungry stomach with ultimate tenderness on the banks of the Lohit River, and my forever friend, Duniya Dozi, sat right beside me, smiling.
Complete Travel Route (Route Map) to Parashuram Kund and Essential Inner Line Permit (ILP) Information for Entering Arunachal Pradesh
Travel Route to Parashuram Kund
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